A wine greater than its classification.
C.O. STEINLINDEN AMBASSADOR on the occasion of our 20th anniversary
Our C.O. Steinlinden is not a classified Grand Cru, and yet its origin ranks among the most significant in Germany. Like the legendary Cros Parantoux in Burgundy, its reputation transcends every formal hierarchy. For true greatness is not created by classification, but by terroir, consistency and time.
20 years together. 20 years of C.O.
Exactly 20 years ago, we got married. And exactly 20 years ago, the story of Battenfeld Spanier and Kühling-Gillot also began.
The origin of the C.O. (Liquid Earth) dates back to 2005 as our personal wedding wine. For years, we reserved it exclusively for our family reserve. It was only the extraordinary quality of mature vintages that led us to the decision to vinify the C.O. Steinlinden permanently. Today, it is counted among Germany's great dry Rieslings.
This wine has now existed for 20 years. An anniversary we are celebrating with a deliberately limited and very personal distinction: worldwide, we are naming just 25 restaurants as C.O. Ambassadors. Each C.O. Ambassador plaque is presented by us personally, as a visible sign of a special bond that goes far beyond a classic partnership.
Since the 2019 vintage, we have carried it under the name C.O. STEINLINDEN (Lieu-Dit). It stands for the ancient limestone parcels between Frauenberg and Schwarzer Herrgott in the northeast of the Mölsheim vineyard area.
The grape variety is merely the translator of the chalky-rocky soil into the glass. With maturity, all fruit recedes into the background. Instead, the wine reveals limestone, salt, stony spice and an almost archaic minerality. Its true dimension only unfolds with age. That is why we let the C.O. Steinlinden leave our 1,800-square-meter underground maturation cellar only after years of bottle rest. It is one of the few white wines in the world that we present only once it has reached its true potential.
For the first time in the history of the Bordeaux négociants, in 2022 — at the time with the 2017 C.O. — a German winery was marketed with a dry Riesling at the world's most famous trading hub for grands vins.
99/100 VINOUS, Anne Krebihl
The 2020 Riesling C.O. Steinlinden "Liquid Earth" speaks of soil and deep limestone. Fruit takes second place on the nose of cool, earthy stone, with just a fringe of lemon. Yes, this is now five years old, but its evolution seems suspended in that cooling, profound freshness. The texture is chalky and has barely begun to evolve. The only thing that is obvious here is the limestone character and depth. The 2020 is anchored in stone and eternal lift with a savor that echoes long, making you want to take another sip.
18.5 JANCIS ROBINSON, Paula Sidore
There are wines that speak more of philosophy than pleasure, and seeing as this was originally conceived as a wedding wine, it's no surprise this is one of them. A powerful, Alsace-like density and insistent stoniness is infused with elegant maturity and an abstract character of salted lemons, quince and apple. The bold palate is built on a cubist-like approach, with multifaceted textures and sensory viewpoints, highlighting structure over flavour. Its raw energy transcends variety and style to reach dizzying complexity.
SANSIBAR, SYLT
DÖLLERER, GOLLING
HOSPIZ ALM, ST. CHRISTOPH AM ARLBERG
TA-NNIN, ANTWERPEN
TANTRIS, MÜNCHEN